{"id":14570,"date":"2024-05-20T14:58:07","date_gmt":"2024-05-20T13:58:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/?p=14570"},"modified":"2024-08-26T12:23:51","modified_gmt":"2024-08-26T11:23:51","slug":"on-the-absolute-edge-the-battle-to-save-liverpools-independents","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/on-the-absolute-edge-the-battle-to-save-liverpools-independents\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8216;On the absolute edge&#8217;: The battle to save Liverpool&#8217;s independents"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">With the hospitality industry struggling to recover from the perfect storm of Covid, Brexit and the cost of living, could it be last orders for Liverpool\u2019s independent restaurants?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s hard to depict the spirit that defines Liverpool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>J\u00fcrgen Klopp, the beloved football manager of the red half of the city, calls it \u2018the city of open arms\u2019 and it\u2019s a not a bad place to start.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A history of left-wing politics, era-defining music, footballing triumph and tragedy \u2013 everyone shares in every aspect of life in the city. It\u2019s no different when it comes to food.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In 2020, brothers Ellis and Liam Barrie decided it was their opportunity to join the city\u2019s thriving independent restaurant landscape with Lerpwl \u2013 bursting with Welsh and northern produce that could take on the city\u2019s intercontinental fare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>With their background in running the award-winning Marram Grass in Anglesey and even an appearance on Great British Menu from Ellis, they were primed for success. The Times called Lerpwl a \u2018Welsh wonder\u2019 in 2022.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But in March 2023, Lerpwl vanished from its space in the Albert Docks, its owners saying the business couldn\u2019t survive post-Covid trading.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For fellow owner Peter Kinsella, who runs the award-winning Catalan restaurants Lunya and Lunyalita, losing Lerpwl was heartbreaking, but it was equally a sign that the hospitality industry was changing for the worse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThey\u2019re a great example of in good times, they would never, ever have closed. Five years ago, when places closed, it didn&#8217;t surprise you. They tended to be a daft idea, or it wasn&#8217;t a good location, something wasn&#8217;t right about the food or service. Whereas now, fundamentally sound businesses are closing, not because of any of those things, but because they\u2019ve run out of cash.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The UK hospitality industry has been battered by what Peter calls \u2018a series of biblical plagues\u2019 \u2013 namely rising energy prices, soaring produce costs, and the backbone of the industry, staffing, undergoing a fundamental change over the last few years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cLast year was the most challenging year we\u2019ve had. This year is the second most challenging,\u201d said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14594\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-770x433.jpg 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-293x165.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"562\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14594\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-770x433.jpg 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/lunya-independent-liverpool-1-293x165.jpg 293w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/noscript><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Peter has been in business for over 14 years and has firsthand experience of the reality of the hospitality crisis &#8211; having been forced to close a hugely popular branch of Lunya in Manchester in 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Energy bills have been a constant source of worry for most households in the UK since costs soared following the end of the Covid-19 pandemic as demand rose, only to be compounded by the Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022 harming supply. When it comes to hospitality, one of the most utility-intensive industries, the numbers involved are eyewatering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cWe used to spend \u00a357,000 on utilities. Last year it was \u00a3250,000 and it\u2019s down to about \u00a3185,000 this year. That feels like a win, but we\u2019re still paying three times what we used to,\u201d said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Energy has become the latest in a long line of pressures on restaurants and nobody has been spared \u2013 even the acclaimed chef Tom Kerridge was quoted a 600% increase on his energy bill for his two Michelin star pub, The Hand and Flowers, and now pays on a monthly basis due to the volatility of the energy market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So the cost to have your restaurant and kitchen running is already high. We haven\u2019t even started to cook anything yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Produce costs have also skyrocketed in recent years as supply has been slashed by conflict and climate change, and if there is one thing that every restaurant in the nation depends on, it\u2019s oil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rapeseed oil is the backbone of Lunya\u2019s operations and the restaurant is at the mercy of low supply, once again caused by the war in Ukraine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThey were the major providers of cooking oil and especially rapeseed oil and that\u2019s stopped. We were paying \u00a317 for a 20L drum, bearing in mind we get through about 25 of those a week, that peaked at \u00a359 and it\u2019s now down to about \u00a330,\u201d said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"724\" height=\"1024\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-724x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14590\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-770x1089.png 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1086x1536.png 1086w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1448x2048.png 1448w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-293x414.png 293w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1400x1980.png 1400w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality.png 1587w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 724px) 100vw, 724px\" \/><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"724\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-724x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14590\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-770x1089.png 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1086x1536.png 1086w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1448x2048.png 1448w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-293x414.png 293w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality-1400x1980.png 1400w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/produce-shortages-hospitality.png 1587w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 724px) 100vw, 724px\" \/><\/noscript><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Sources &#8211; Guardian, Bloomberg, AHDB <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>In yet another cruel twist, this gets worse for Spanish and Italian restaurants, of which Liverpool is very much a fan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Drought has slashed olive yields, making olive oil a rare commodity. But a whole supply chain of Spanish goods has seen their production suffer as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cManchego cheese has gone from \u00a313 a kilo to \u00a322 \u2013 drought has meant that the yield for milk has really dropped because there just aren\u2019t any pastures to graze on,&#8221;  said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even if goods can get to the British border, the dreaded B-word rears its head: Brexit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The free flow of goods that Lunya once benefitted from has slowed to a crawl as red tape and transportation costs have slowed the import of stock to five or six weeks from ordering, compared to just a few days in the past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Brexit also fundamentally changed staffing in the hospitality industry. When new rules raised the minimum salary threshold for a skilled work visa, London experienced a flight of staff that has left Italian restaurants struggling to replace them. Peter has seen firsthand just how hard it is to fill the gaps in Liverpool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe average age for our workforce, if you leave aside our senior management, used to be 29. It&#8217;s now 22,\u201d said Peter. \u201cSo it&#8217;s more costly, because you have to do a lot more training, and the reality is that it\u2019s a challenging group of people to employ.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Peter is all too aware of the financial risks of hospitality businesses closing \u2013 he notes that in the 14 years that Lunya has been open, the business has paid over \u00a310 million in tax \u2013 but for Liverpool in particular, he knows the independent culture it so greatly admires could be lost too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cPeople love to support independent places. They&#8217;re not fussed about going to a Zizzi or Gordon Ramsay\u2019s Bread Kitchen. They want to support their local restaurant because they are committed to having a diverse economy, and loads of people feel like that. So as a business, you&#8217;ve got a big responsibility, I think, to cultivate that relationship. And to make sure it grows stronger.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A strong relationship is arguably what saved Lunya and Lunyalita back in 2020.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A passionate letter to then-prime minister Boris Johnson shone a light on closed restaurants which were relying on government loans simply to stay afloat, Lunya included, which propelled Kinsella to the headlines of BBC North West Tonight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-twitter wp-block-embed-twitter\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"550\" data-dnt=\"true\"><p lang=\"en\" dir=\"ltr\">I don\u2019t think <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/10DowningStreet?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">@10DowningStreet<\/a> will ever see this, but who knows if it gets retweeted enough. A letter to the Prime Minister <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/6NOoh9G1h6\">pic.twitter.com\/6NOoh9G1h6<\/a><\/p>&mdash; Lunya (@Lunya) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Lunya\/status\/1240262938927280132?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">March 18, 2020<\/a><\/blockquote><script async src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Liverpool as a whole responded \u2013 they wouldn\u2019t stand for losing Lunya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cI was convinced we were going to go bust. We wrote to our customers to say \u2018We think we\u2019re buggered, but if you want to help, buy online from us.&#8217; Within four or five weeks, we completely sold out of everything and we were having to scour wholesalers for Spanish produce so we could replenish and carry on selling,\u201d said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Peter claims he even bought the UK\u2019s entire supply of Spanish beer in the process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The restaurant\u2019s 70,000 registered customers, and countless others, did their part. It wasn\u2019t just about saving the business, but saving its contribution to independent restaurant culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIf we were ever seen as just a restaurant, for me that would be an absolute failure on our part. It\u2019s lovely that you can develop something that people do feel is authentic without it being a pastiche either. You won\u2019t find any posters of bullfighters in our place. What you will find is a lovely, welcoming vibe, the best of everything we can find, and the feeling of going to a lovely place in Spain,\u201d said Peter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"724\" height=\"1024\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-724x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-770x1089.png 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1086x1536.png 1086w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1448x2048.png 1448w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-293x414.png 293w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1400x1980.png 1400w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations.png 1587w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 724px) 100vw, 724px\" \/><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"724\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-724x1024.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-14647\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-724x1024.png 724w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-212x300.png 212w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-770x1089.png 770w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1086x1536.png 1086w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1448x2048.png 1448w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-293x414.png 293w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations-1400x1980.png 1400w, https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/8\/2024\/05\/liverpool-restaurant-recommendations.png 1587w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 724px) 100vw, 724px\" \/><\/noscript><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>With one eye on the future, Peter knows that local support is only part of resolving what is a complex, and still developing, crisis in the hospitality industry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Another includes changing the way in which we talk about the hospitality industry. As the third-largest employment sector in the UK, it is often maligned as a low-skilled sector, something that Peter thoroughly rejects.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cOur sector is it isn\u2019t seen as a fancy, sexy, technological sector. It\u2019s so frustrating when you hear people talking about it being a low-skilled sector \u2013 actually, the low level of skill is the person who presses the on\/off button on Jaguar Land Rover\u2019s production line. People skills, the ability to read situations, just cooking a piece of fish perfectly are really, really difficult skills to have.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The most important focus, however, should be on providing immediate relief for businesses, not long-term strategy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThe most immediate thing any government could do would be a short-term reduction in VAT. We\u2019re the only place in Europe that has VAT on eating out at 20%. Everywhere else, it\u2019s 10% or 11%. For places that are really close to the edge, that would make a massive difference to them.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With the hospitality industry struggling to recover from the perfect storm of Covid, Brexit and the cost of living, could it be last orders for Liverpool\u2019s independent restaurants?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1077,"featured_media":14593,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14570","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorised"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>&#039;On the absolute edge&#039;: The battle to save Liverpool&#039;s independents - Life360<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cardiffjournalism.co.uk\/life360\/?p=14570\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"&#039;On the absolute edge&#039;: The battle to save Liverpool&#039;s independents - 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