Is Cardiff’s food scene finally getting the recognition it deserves and does this spell a bright future for Cardiff’s foodie Scene?
In the suburbs of Cardiff’s Pontcanna, stands Gorse. For Tom Waters, the journey to becoming Cardiff’s first ever Michelin-starred restaurant wasn’t an easy one—it was built from years of experience, setbacks, and the desire to put Welsh cuisine on the map.
Mr Waters said he wasn’t aware of when Michelin star inspectors arrived at the restaurant since everything was so anonymous. “It was so under the table. They have these undercover inspectors that come in a few times a year,” he said.
“They report back to Michelin headquarters and I got an email two weeks ago saying you’ve been invited to a ceremony, but no details provided.”
Only when Mr Waters heard his and the restaurant’s name being read out during the The MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2025 ceremony, is when he knew that he’s being awarded with a Michelin star status.
“It’s very nerve-wracking but the feeling is indescribable,” said Tom, reflecting on the moment he learned Gorse had received its first Michelin star. “It was all those years of hard work. You pour everything into it, and to have that kind of recognition is surreal. I think we always thought that we were happy with the way the food was going and how people were receiving it, but yeah, it probably came a little bit earlier than we expected.”
The road to Gorse’s Michelin star in just eight months was never easy. The idea of running a pop-up in the first place was daunting, but Tom knew his work would be worth it.
Jane Cook, who worked with Tom for his PR when he first opened the restaurant, remembers how it all started. “It was a leap of faith,” she said.. “Tom had this deep passion for Welsh ingredients, and he was determined to create something special with only local produce. There was so much heart behind it. The pop-up scene was where he started, and it was clear from the very beginning that people were connecting with Tom’s vision.”
Tom Waters’ dream of bringing his vision of Welsh cuisine on the map didn’t start with a grand restaurant plan. It began as a simple pop-up. As Tom recalls, “I’ve been working away for a long time and always had the aim to come back here, to open something in my home city. I never knew it would happen this fast, but it was always my goal.”
The intimate, open kitchen concept at Gorse allowed diners to witness the process up close, while Tom and his team explained each dish with pride. The space itself, decorated in a calming sage green, felt like an extension of the Welsh landscape.
“The design was carefully thought out to create a space that was warm and welcoming,” said Tom. “It’s about making people feel somewhere at home as they walk in,” said Tom.
Gorse’s name, derived from the gorse flower that Tom fondly remembered from childhood trips to Tenby, was more than just a name. It was a symbol of the connection Tom had to his homeland. “It’s always been about celebrating what Wales has to offer. It’s personal; it’s a reflection of who I am,” said Tom.
“For Jane, the Michelin recognition was a proud moment, not just for Tom but for the whole city of Cardiff. “It felt like Cardiff was finally getting the recognition it deserved,” she says. “Tom’s hard work, his dedication to Welsh produce, and his ability to balance innovation with tradition, all came together. This wasn’t just a win for Gorse—it was a win for the city and for Welsh food.”
For Tom, this venture was more than just about the food; it was about honoring his roots. With each dish, Tom invites his diners into his world. From seaweed gathered from Câr-y-Môr to Gower Salt Marsh lamb, every ingredient tells a story of Welsh tradition and the purity of local produce.
“Everything here is very microseasonal, so it just sort of depends on the produce we can get hold of every day, every week. So many changes very often. So we’ve lots of small farmers, growers, fishermen, and artisans, and they basically tell us what’s best to put on the menu on a weekly or daily basis,” said Tom.
The emotional connection Tom has with his heritage shines through not just in the food but also in the very essence of the restaurant. The intimate dining room, decorated with locally made artworks and a calming sage green color scheme, transports guests into a space where they feel not just welcomed but connected to the story behind each bite.
“I think we’re quite a small restaurant, and I want people to feel like they are somewhere near home or, in fact, dining at their own house. So it means that we can really focus on the details, I suppose, since we work with some really amazing local produce,” said Tom.
The Michelin Guide praised Gorse not only for its food but also for the experience it offers. The inspectors noted the use of local Welsh produce, like seaweed from Câr-y-Môr and Gower Salt Marsh lamb, saying, “Every composition had been expertly balanced, underscoring Waters’ brilliant understanding of flavors.” It was a recognition that would bring the spotlight to Cardiff’s culinary scene.
When Gorse was awarded its Michelin Star in 2025, it was a defining moment of profound impact on Cardiff’s culinary reputation for both Tom and Cardiff. Waters’ success is more than just a personal milestone. But what does Gorse’s Michelin success mean for Cardiff’s future?
According to Wayne Kamans, a Cardiff and South Wales food blogger, the city has always had great food, but the Michelin Star “puts the city on the fine dining map in a way we haven’t seen before.” Cardiff’s culinary reputation has been built on its strong street food scene, casual dining, and vibrant Indian restaurants, but with Gorse’s star, the city now has a benchmark for high-end dining that others will surely follow.
Kamans believes that Gorse’s success will inspire other chefs and investors to consider opening fine dining restaurants in Cardiff. “When one restaurant proves it can be done, others follow,” he said. “It gives chefs and investors confidence that there’s a demand for high-end dining in Cardiff.”
But while the future is bright, challenges remain. One significant hurdle for Cardiff is the perception that it is still a casual dining city. As Kamans points out, fine dining can be expensive to run, and with the cost of living in mind, it’s not always easy to convince people to book a tasting menu. Yet, as Gorse has shown, when you offer something truly exceptional, people will take notice—and the Michelin Star has played a pivotal role in that.
For locals, Gorse’s Michelin Star has already begun to shift perceptions. As Emma from Pontcanna said, “Places like Gorse, Heaneys, and Asador 44 are putting Cardiff on the foodie map.” With more people discovering Cardiff’s emerging fine dining scene, it’s clear that the city is heading in an exciting direction. Food tourism is on the rise, and as Tom Waters’ success story proves, a Michelin star can make a huge difference in drawing people to the city.
Despite the excitement, there are hurdles to overcome. Cardiff’s reputation as a casual dining city, along with economic pressures, could make it difficult for more fine dining restaurants to flourish.
“In London, you have people earning £100k, £200k, £300k, and £400k, eating out four times a week. We don’t have that level of wealth in South Wales. That’s just the reality. It also depends on the crowd. And with a potential recession in Cardiff, people are watching their spending. But they still want to splash out for special occasions,” said Jane.
For local diners like Ben from Canton, Gorse’s Michelin recognition signals a shift in the city’s food culture. “It’s about time Cardiff was recognized for what it has to offer,” he says. “We’ve got some incredible chefs here, and the more attention we get, the better for all of us.”
As for Tom Waters, the journey is far from over. He remains humble in the face of his success, always striving to improve and showcase the best of Welsh cuisine.
“I’m really thankful for everyone who has supported us over the period of time,” he says, a sentiment that speaks to the heart of what Gorse represents: a community of people coming together to celebrate the richness of Welsh food and culture.
As Gorse continues to grow and thrive, one thing is certain: the story of Tom Waters and his restaurant will be a key chapter in Cardiff’s rising food scene. It’s a symbol of what’s possible when passion meets perseverance—and a sign that the city’s culinary future is brighter than ever.